Malia Tomarata School finalist

Wow look at those big waves!

I can’t wait to go surfing but first I need to wriggle into my wetsuit and put on the leg rope.

I grab my enormous board, it is Soooo big – it is hard to carry!

Remember to look out for rips. Rips can drag you all the way out to sea if you don’t watch out for them.

Slowly I walk into the freezing water then I jump onto my board and start paddling slowly through the rough waves.

I get out past the breaking waves, then I turn and wait for a good wave.

Here comes a good big one and I wait for the big wave to catch me. Just a few seconds later the big wave is right behind me.

Quick, start paddling as fast as I can so that I can catch that wave.

My board slides through the water as I stand up. Carefully, woo put your arms out to stop that wooble. It may look easy to stand up but it is very hard.

I go zooming into the beach like a racing car.

Then crash!

 I tumble into the rolling waves and grab onto my board.

Wow that was great!

 I turn my board around and start paddling out through the rolling waves again to catch another great wave.

I love surfing. Standing on your board as the wave catches you and you go gliding through across the water like you are flying is awesome.

Malia